Installation should be easy. Assuming you have all the parts of your Amiga computer it should be around 30 mins, with appropriate care applied. Please install the keyboard first without any configuration changes to verify if it is working as expected in default configuration. It is tested before sending, so it is best to test the same item on your side to locate the potential problem root cause.
Unpacking the box
This step is important, so you don’t damage the fragile part: the FFC cable. It is soldered to the PCB on one end. It’s a plastic material more or less 0,2mm thick. This all makes it very sensitive to bending or pulling.
At this step please examine if everything is up to your expectations. If something is not clear, please contact me.
Remove two marked screws and keep them.
Disassemble the Amiga 1200 keyboard
I believe I don’t need to provide any photos of this process. You are supposed to remove the top enclosure and disassemble the whole original keyboard. In case you never did it before, find some youtube videos. MOST important: do not pull on the cable, there is a plastic clip that you are supposed to use to unlock the socket. Membrane cable should get out without any force needed. After removing all the bottom screws, you should end up with main 3 components: metal plate, membrane and keyboard plastic chassis (you dont need to remove the original keycaps).
Remove the keyboard bottom screws, and separate the metal backplate from keyboard chassis and membrane.




If your backplate is rusty or corroded consider cleaning it, degreasing and removing the rust. I had to do it in my case. Metal was seriously corroded. I used the rust remover followed by cleaning and applying the rust inhibitor filler.
Install the PCB carefully
Slide the FFC cable through the opening in the metal (just like original membrane).

Locate the PCB completely touching the edged on the side and top. PCB size matches exactly the original plastic, so it should fit. If it does not, dont force it and see if something is blocking the PCB from seating.





Installation holes should lineup.
Use two marked holes to reinstall the screws back. They don’t have to be tight. They just lock the PCB in place. If you put too much pressure, it will deform the PCB and put the connections at stress. “Just enough” tension is required. You can secure the nut with some glue after the verification so they don’t become loose.





Reinstall new keyboard
Put the keyboard in the original location. Notice how four “mechanical adjustment point” touch the enclosure posts. It is designed to maintain exactly the same location of the PCB as the original plastic keyboard.



Insert the FFC cable into the socket.
Secure the socket mechanism, and DO NOT use any sharp or metal tools to do that (because you can rip the FFC cable if you make a small mistake).
Test
That is how the keycaps align with the original enclosure.

Power on the computer, start your software and please verify if all keys are working as expected. Don’t forget to confirm the LED light.
Reassemble the top case
Reassemble the top case exactly as you would with the original keyboard. Take care not to put any stress on the FFC.
Typical problems I spotted during prototyping
- Some keys not working, or led light does not power on – It happened to me once. It was because of not correctly locked FFC in the socket. Open it again, remove FFC and reinstall FFC in the socket. Pay close attention to fully lock the cable with the plastic latch. FFC goes in with minimal force when the socket is correctly open.
- Keyboard orientation too much to the left/right/up – Make sure that PCB is aligned to the top edge of the metal backplate, it sits flat on the metal and screws are in place. Then verify if the metal backplate is fully aligned in it’s original place. If your enclosure is somehow damaged you have the last chance to modify the keyboard using mechanical adjustment points and removing some material from these places to make the keyboard “sit” lower.
- FFC cable slips out even from locked socket – make sure it works correctly on the original membrane which you removed. There are only 2 options possible:
- FFC was not inserted to the bottom of the socket and locked, or
- Socket is damaged. If that’s the case I can send you a different version of FFC cable which is slightly thicker, but that would require resoldering the FFC on the PCB connector.