Features

It is a keyboard and I am not a marketing person.

Layout

• US International plus 2 x NULL
• This is the layout which was implemented:

• All lines are having the keycaps in the same length as original Amiga keyboard, except bottom line with spacebar.
• Spacebar is shorter. To accomodate the available space keycaps ALT and AMIGA are a bit larger and CTRL replicated key was added.
• All kaycaps prints are on top face.

PBT plastic

Produced from PBT and dyed with color using thermotransfer method. I was told that they should last several years of daily use and age without yellow color drift.

XDA profile

I used the XDA profile. Mainly because it is the only thing on the market that can be customized within reasonable budget. But there is a beneficial side effect. XDA keycaps can be easily purchased everywhere. This opens the door for customizations. Just search for XDA keycaps with MX stem.

Config

This part is optional. Keyboard works fully when assembled without any modifications.

LED config

• CapsLock LED brightness is controlled by the resistor. Keyboard comes with resistor 330 Ohm. It keeps the current low enough, to keep keyboard controller and LED itself within normal range of work.
• You can recalculate the resistor value and change it to have the led light dimmer or brighter.
• Make sure you know what you do when modifying this resistor.
• For the comfort of user, three locations of the same resistor (in parallel) are available. THT, and 2 sizes of SMD. That is because I didn’t want to assume which resistor type will be used. SMD version is populated by default.

Second CTRL key action

• By default second CTRL key (on the right side of spacebar) is an exact copy of the original CTRL key.
• PCB provides the possibility to enable alternative second CTRL action. By cutting the marked red connections and connecting the green pads with solder, then the pins from CTRL are available on the large pads. It can be usable for people that want to control something peripheral.
• In alternative mode, the second CTRL should not have any connection with Amiga computer.
• Never keep the CTRL action enabled while enabling the CTRL pinout. It can lead to damage of Amiga keyboard controller.
• Original (left) CTRL is not affected by this config. It always works as in the original keyboard.

CapsLock LED location

By default LED is located just under the Caps Lock keycap. Which looks like this in the dark:

There are two possible locations of this LED:

• Default as presented above.
• Alternative: between ESC and F1 keys. It can be usable for people with translucent cases.

Shiny areas near LED are meant to reflect light more efficient than the PCB surface. If alternative SMD LED is installed, it fits in the the enclosure plastic.

Never install both LEDs at the same time. It will lead to damaging at least one of them as the LED resistor is single and shared for both LED locations.

Default LED location

Alternative LED location

Spacebar switch

Spacebar by default is supported by central switch and stabilizer. It is possible to change this configuration into usage of two switches (with stabilizers still installed) located on edges of the spacebar keycap.

If you decide to use two switches, effect is that spacebar will be a small bit more stable and much more rigid so higher force will be required to actuate it.

Mechanical adjustment points

Not recommended, unless necessary.
Mainly because it is not revesible and quite complex to do with high precision.

In a very unlikely situation that that PCB would be too high in your enclosure, I marked four points which match the location of Amiga original positioning limiters. If you would remove the same tiny bit of material on all points, the whole keyboard will slide down this tiny bit. Normally I tested this keyboard on several enclosures (new and old) and never had to use this adjustment. But it is there.

Stabilizers in the long run

It seemed to me that, if user will remove and reinstall the keycaps frequently, stabilizers can become loose or damaged. Method of repair would be to simply replace the part. BUT my paranoia kicked in and I added additional holes near every stabilizer. If something would get damaged you can use them to secure the stabilizer wire from falling out, like in the example photo:

Visible additional metalized holes

Small wire added to the left stabilizer to keep the stabilizer in place even after damage

Zoom on the repair method

Additional holes for custom mounts

On the left and right edge of the PCB, I implemented a group of holes that do not exist in the original metal backplate. I didn’t work on it, but it was foreseen as making a step towards custom mounting that would not use the metal backplate. For example I can imagine using a 3D printer to make some brackets – in this scenario, having a neatly aligned mounting holes is very convinient. BUT: in the design the metal backplate from original keyboard is required to be reused (see installation page).

Additional holes for installation

I replicated on the PCB, most of the holes done on the factory metal backplate – even if only two of them are to be used for this keyboard.
Reason for this is manufacturing tolerances. If the marked holes would not align perfectly with metal backplate you still have additional 15 holes to check. Something will align and enable the secure installation.